An apple a day keeps the doctor away. No doubt, you've heard this cliché at least once before. Well, when it comes to your pond, a monthly test keeps your pond at its best! Testing water quality in your pond is not only a learning process but it is also vital in keeping a balanced ecosystem, and maintaining water stability. But what is the simplest way to test pond water? What do I test for? How often should I test? How do I to fix any imbalance I might discover? Testing water isn't as complicated as it seems. It's hardly rocket science. All you need is the basics.
First, how do I test the water in my pond? This, perhaps, is the simplest question to answer when it comes to water testing. There are easy, ready-made test kits available. It is better to buy an all-in-one water test kit than to buy many separate ones. The all-in-one is more convenient and covers all necessary factors in your pond that needs testing. Buying single test kits, one at a time, can become expensive.
What do I need to test my pond for? There are six main parameters that need testing: Ammonia, pH, Nitrite, Oxygen, Carbonate Hardness, and General Hardness. I will break down what each of these parameters are, why testing for them is necessary, and how to fix any imbalance.
1. Ammonia: a gas that is highly alkaline (toxic) in water solutions. It is caused by fish waste, debris, or other organic decaying matter. Ammonia should be kept at a level of zero. The best way to prevent high spikes of Ammonia is to limit the amount of food fed to your fish. The less processed food they eat, the less toxic waste the fish produce, something I'm sure we're all familiar with. This alone will help keep the Ammonia level down.
How to fix Ammonia imbalance: The best solution for high Ammonia spikes is a sufficient water change of 25%-40%. Once you've conducted a water change make sure to add dechlorinator to rid the pond of any Chlorine and Chloramines. Also, check to see that the Biological filter is clean. Rinsing the filter media in a bucket of pond, NOT tap water, works best. Monitor the Ammonia levels over the next few weeks.
2. pH: defined as the potential of Hydrogen. pH is the measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. pH and Ammonia go hand-in-hand. If pH levels are to low (below 7) then results could be deadly. pH scales form 1-14, 7 being neutral. Ideal levels should be between 7.0 and 8.0
How to fix pH imbalance: If your pH is low (under 7) a pH increaser will be necessary. It is a treatment that will raise the pH level in your pond by neutralizing acidic substances. Baking Soda can be used to up pH but it does not last. If your pH is high (typically above 8) a pH reducing treatment can be used. This treatment neutralizes the alkaline substances. Vinegar is cheap and works well in larger ponds. Using vinegar in small or medium ponds can be dangerous to fish and should be dealt with in small amounts. Both products work at a slow rate to keep aquatic life healthy. pH should be tested in the morning to attain accurate results.
3. Nitrite: an oxidized ion of Nitrogen. Too much Nitrite can be harmful to fish. The reason is because Nitrite is absorbed in the blood, reducing its ability to transport Oxygen around the body. It can potentially cause ulcers or even suffocate fish from a lack of Oxygen.
How to fix Nitrite imbalance: Nitrite levels should ideally be below .8mg/l but can be allowed to fluctuate to 1.5mg/l. If Nitrite is above this level a 20% water change is crucial. Be sure to add a dechlorinator every time a water change is carried out. Monitor Nitrite levels carefully for the next couple weeks to be it remains balanced.
4. Oxygen: element needed to sustain life. Like any living thing, fish need oxygen to survive. If your pond has a lack of the sufficient amount of Oxygen needed, fish can be more susceptible to disease or may even suffocate.
How to fix Oxygen imbalance: Hot weather is the most crucial time to test Oxygen levels in your pond. If the Oxygen is low there are a couple of simple solutions. Aerators can be used, or aquatic plants can be added. Oxygenating plants such as Anachorus or Hornwort work especially well. A larger pump may also increase pond aeration. Even additional fountains or spitters could help-anything to help move and splash water.
5. Carbonate Hardness: the Carbonate and Bicarbonate content. pH and KH (Carbonate Hardness) affect each other. The higher the KH level, the higher the pH level rises and visa versa. As you know pH also affects Ammonia levels.
6. General Hardness (GH): a measure of dissolved Calcium and Magnesium salt. The salt influences the metabolism of any aquatic life and should be tested to ensure healthy fish.
How to fix Carbonate and General Hardness imbalance: If pond water test results reveal excessive hardness a softener can be used a reducer. Rainwater, or distilled water work as well.
These six parameters are the basic factors that need testing in any pond. Chlorine, Chloramines, and Copper (if running water through copper pipes) can be tested for also, but are typically not necessary.
Temperature should be regulated. An ideal temperature for a Koi pond is between 65° -75°F. However, in extreme conditions 35° -85°F is acceptable.
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